BEGINNERS START HERE

For those wanting to know more about archery as beginners, this page tells you about our training courses, a little about the equipment and a taster of what to expect from Field Archery from Panther Bowhunters. Like most other sports there are as many opinions as there are exponents about what is 'right'. So before I get a flood of emails on the subject let me say this is my opinion.

Training Courses - Saturday mornings from (about) 10am 'til noon in the Glade (our practice area adjacent to the car park). Each course is for 4 weeks with the first 3 weeks in the Glade and the final week spent on either A or B course (i.e. in the woods). For the final week we start at about 11.30am in the Glade, warm up and go out on the course at 12.30 (no shooting allowed in the woods on a saturday morning - applies to everyone not just beginners). The format of the training courses are to give a practical introduction to the sport and help/guide you to a level of basic profficiency. Most of all we make sure you are safe (not only yourself but for others as well). Our training team have themselves been trained to a nationally recognised standard and are subject to continuous improvement. For beginners that wish to delve deeper, a modification of the GNAS training syllabus is used by the Panther Bowhunters team. Now for some FAQ.

"Do I need to attend 4 consecutive weeks?" - No, we're flexible but don't leave it too long between sessions.
"Do I need to buy any archery stuff?" - No, the Club provides all you need for the beginner course.
"How far will I be shooting?" - Initially you will be shooting at a target about 10-15 yards. 45 yards max in the Glade
"Do you train children?" - Yes, so long as they are at least aged 10 and accompanied by a shooting adult
"How many beginners in a class?" - Up to 4
"I used a compound bow at Center Parcs" - You will use recurve bows for the beginner course
"I want to shoot a longbow" - See above
"How much hands-on archery is there in the course?" - 100%
"I'd like a beginners course but can't do saturdays" - We'll try to accomodate you at some other time
"Do you offer private lessons?" - Yes although there is an additional cost involved for the course
"What happens after I finish the course?" - You will be invited to join the Club
"What if I start the course and find I don't like it?" - We will happily refund all your money
"How do I find out more about archery?" - Surf the internet and contact Mike at yewbow4me@aol.com

Archery Equipment - Panther Bowhunters provides all the archery equipment you need during the beginner course. Even when you've finished the course the Club is happy to loan equipment until you are ready to buy your own. Now, I'm a relative newcomer to archery myself (10 years) and when I was taught by my coach (Robin) he told me not to go out and buy stuff. Since then I've heard other coaches say the same thing to other beginners and as a trainer myself these days I say the same to my beginners. AND STILL THE VAST MAJORITY DON'T LISTEN! So, rather than go out and buy the wrong thing here's my list in order of priority of the things you will buy sooner or later.

1. Tab - not the fancy shelf tab (or worse-still, shooting glove). A basic leather tab costing about 30 bob (£1.50)
Don't forget they come in right and left hand. The tab goes on the fingers of the hand you use to pull the string
2. Bracer - again not a fancy lace-up arm saddle for longbow wars. A plastic one with the toggles is fine (£5)
Personally I don't like the ones with Velcro as it peels off after a while. The bracer goes on the arm you hold the bow with.
3. Quiver - not a back quiver please. I've got one and they're hopeless for beginners (£15-£25)
Like the tabs these come in either right or left handed. If you hold the bow in your left hand the quiver goes on your right hip

Here I'll digress because if you're new to the great outdoors you'll find that shooting in the middle of winter in the rain then a pair of white designer trainers and a fashionable 'hoodie' will not (a) last long and (b) keep you dry and comfortable for shooting. Conversely, a puffa ski jacket and pants will have you fumbling with bow and arrows. Even on balmy summer days, a pair of stout boots will protect your feet from brambles and nettles while in the woods. Watch what the experienced archers wear to give you guidance on what is practical. Oh, and don't forget a hat! Keeps the head warm and dry in winter. Unless you shoot a compound, most archers don't wear a baseball cap as the peak often fouls the string at full draw. In the woods in the summer your best friend is mozzie spray.

5. Arrows - not until you know drawlength, draw-weight etc. Take advice since you won't need ACE's to start
At the bottom end are fibreglass 'club' arrows - forget these. Next comes aluminium 'Jazz' and X7 ranges. Overlapping the X7 are carbon arrows all the way up to ACE (25 quid each). Arrows in the middle ground will serve you well.

Another digression here. You will lose fletchings (vanes) from your arrows. A simple fletching jig, spare fletchings and some glue is a worthwhile investment if you think you might stick with archery for a while. Similarly, spare arrow nocks are handy to replace those lost/damaged ones. Not everyone can afford to buy new arrows every time fletchings/nocks come off.

6. Bow - Take advice (most won't). To start-with an expensive bow won't always make you a better archer.

7-1000 All the other paraphenalia that all sports have. For Field archery there's stabilisers, sights, binoculars, shooting vest, kissers, string jigs, peeps ...and so the list goes on. If you've ever been fishing then you'll know what I mean. At the time it's MUST HAVE stuff.

 

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